“Many times the wrong train took me to the right place,” novelist Paulo Coelho once wrote, which is certainly true in my own experience.A last minute change of plans on an overnight train ride from Vienna with our kids provided an unforgettable sunrise.From the sleeper windows we saw Venice’s skyline etched into the orange, crimson and pale blue sky as the train glided across the lagoon.Another time, a few years ago, I woke up in a packed wagon, and on the way back to Thessaloniki, workers were providing food and talking, as I slept at a connection at Belgrade Central Station.
After two years of uncertainty about air travel, and growing awareness of its impact on the climate, now is the perfect time to rediscover the joys of traveling by train.However, our own rail network in Ireland is limited, so the easiest way to try a multi-destination rail holiday is to take a ferry across the Irish Sea to England and discover beautiful scenery and picturesque towns and cities beyond the bright lights of London. Village, Manchester or Liverpool.
Inter Rail celebrates its 50th birthday this year, and buying a Flex Rail Pass through an agent such as International Rail brings a touch of nostalgia and deep discounts – such as the £238 (€287) 15-day non-continuous UK ticket.You can reconnect with your inner student and have the freedom to stay somewhere longer or move around as you please.That’s the freedom to travel by train.
This circular route explores some of the most beautiful towns, counties and hamlets in the British landscape.
After arriving in Holyhead by ferry, discover the rhythm of train travel on a four-hour journey, heading north towards Cartmel, a small leafy medieval village and gateway to the Lake District.The village is known for its horse racing and gourmet food – try the local specialty sticky toffee pudding, or go a step further at the Michelin-starred restaurant L’Enclume.
Journey: By Grange-over-Sands train (three hours); bus (10 minutes) or bike (15 minutes) to Cartmel
Where to stay: Priory Hall has lovely rooms in the center of the village from €120.Abbey Hotel cartmel.co.uk
From Cartmel, drive along the Cumbrian coastline, then glide from the grid to the northernmost – and arguably prettiest – town of Keswick in the Lake District.Hillwalkers can embrace the Skiddaw and Blencathra hills surrounding the village, as well as the silver moon-shaped Derwentwater Lake, or just stroll through the poetic backdrop and admire what Coleridge, Southey and Wordsworth call home.
Where to stay: Rickerby Grange has been welcoming guests since the 1930s and is now run by couple Phil and Charlotte, with stylish rooms from €125.rickerbygrange.co.uk
Use Durham’s UNESCO-designated riverside fairytale castle and cathedral – famous for its pivotal role in the Harry Potter films – as a landmark to wind its way through the city’s depressing but beautiful Walk through the cobblestone alleys.Cafes, bars and artisan food shops line the street; take a break at Tealicious in pink and pale blue for a selection of teas and snacks.
Where to stay: The Kingslodge Inn is a 10-minute walk from Durham and is surrounded by the peaceful woodlands of Flass Vale, with rooms from €130.inncollectiongroup.com/kingslodge-inn
Stay in this lovely coastal hamlet and explore North York Moors and its tumbling valleys on the excellent network of local buses and trains, including the Esk Valley Community Rail Service.The town’s museum explores the life of adventurer and cartographer Captain James Cook, and towering over the skyline from the edge of a cliff is the very atmospheric, very Gothic ruins of Whitby Abbey, which appears in Bramstow on the pages of Dracula’s book.Pretty Robin Hood’s Bay south of Whitby has a subtle connection to Prince of Thieves.
Where to stay: White Horse & Griffin dates back to 1681 and room rates start from €110.whitehorseandgriffin.com
The quintessence of a medieval town, York’s network of cobblestone lanes is jam-packed with stuccoed half-timbered buildings, rich rustic handmade bricks and casement windows.Head to The Shambles, one of the most Instagrammable streets in the world, for an old-world vibe.Stonegate’s “House of Crazy Shaking” offers a wide selection of local beers, but before you head down the road, be sure to catch a glimpse of York’s magnificent Gothic cathedral cathedral.
In the heart of the rolling hills and rocky outcrops of the Peak District, Bakewell sits on the banks of the River Wye, with sandstone streets lined with fine independent bookshops and cafes.Enchanting is Chatsworth House, which doubles as Pemberley in the TV and film of Jane Austen’s novel Pride and Prejudice.To promote sustainable tourism, visitors to Chatsworth by bus, train or bike can enjoy a £5 discount.
Where to stay: The 200-year-old Peacock Inn offers colorful rooms with four-poster beds starting at €118.peacockbakewell.com
Arguably England’s most beautiful town, Rye is a place where the clock stopped ticking sometime in the 15th century, with curved timber overhangs, cast-iron signage and lantern lights casting ghosts on its shiny cobblestone alleys like reflection.Head to Mermaid Street – a winding alley that looks as if it belonged on a movie set – with quirky building names like The House Opposite.Stories of ghosts, smugglers and pirates abound, including the nocturnal ghosts of Lamb House, once home to American author Henry James.
Accommodation: Willow Tree House offers luxury bed and breakfasts from €150 per room.Willow House.com
From Rye, add a romantic touch to your adventure on a nightly Riviera sleeper ride through London, just a short train journey from London.Penzance’s promenade has a rustic Victorian charm, but stroll down to Church Street and you can see the town’s impressive Georgian architecture, including quirky and eccentric Egyptian houses or Maria, the mother of the Brontë brothers and sisters. Branwell’s small residence.From Penzance, stroll along the Cornish coast, first to seaside St Ives on the scenic bay line.Eclectic roofs – clock tower, slate or tile – cluster around White Sands Bay, and there are great dining options; stop by The Porthminster Beach Café for the views.Then explore the coast by train, get off at places like Mouse Hole or St Michael’s Mount, and make your way slowly to Plymouth.
Where to stay: Artist’s Residence offers quirky and charming rooms in a revival Georgian inn, starting at €125.British artist residence
Sleepy Castle Combe shows little sign of time passing, so its winding streets have caught the attention of filmmakers from Steven Spielberg to the Downton Abbey team.It’s definitely a slow-paced destination.Stop for a coffee at The Old Stables or head to St Andrew’s Church to find the faceless clock from the 15th century.Located in the Cotswolds, Castle Combe is an ideal base for exploring the region’s other golden villages.
The honey hues and spires of the university town of Oxford make it a worthwhile resting place on a Shakespeare tour of the country.Stratford is a convenient last stop – most of the good stuff, including Holy Trinity Church, home of the great bard from cradle to grave – is within walking distance of the station.Catch a play at the Royal Shakespeare Company Theatre and rest for the final leg of the journey back to Holyhead.
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